Slovakia - Day 36: Svidnik to Dukliansky Priesmyk

Svidnik to Dukliansky Priesmyk. Poland. The End

Poor Parking

We have done it.  

It took us two years, or 36 days, or somewhere in between, but who cares.  People we met on the way didn’t believe that we were doing it – we were too clean and not smelly enough. We believe, mainly because they have told us, people we have spoken to afterwards don’t believe that we did it. So now we have to confess; … we did it without tents, without sleeping rough, without smelling too bad and obviously without bears.

Good Parking

I am now fully convinced that the Slovak bear is a bit like the Loch Ness Monster – that is, fictitious. If anyone can show us a bear, in the wild, please let us know. We are willing to travel and will be eternally grateful. We’ll buy the kofola.

Actually, we went to the zoo and saw the bears – shit they are big; we are really really happy that we didn’t meet a bear.  We would have been the teddy bears picnic.

No Parking

We almost ran the last day; well the shorter of us had to run to keep up. An average walking speed of 4.9km per hour – there are not too many buses from the border and we wanted to have time to look at the SNP (Slovak National Uprising) Museum. The day was beautiful – a fitting end to our walk. We looked at the views, ate the stolen apples and appreciated the tanks that dot the area.  But the real reason for our un-discussed speed was our eagerness to actually finish. To know that we had done it, actually done it. By now so many people knew what we were doing. To fail would have been so, so,.. well so f----ing embarrassing.

Public Announcement: I want to say, for the record, now that we are immensely proud of our kids.

We spend a total of 36 days walking … together (HELL?). 

What we talked about, who knows, who cares. 

It was quality time – 

                                        even the up-hill silences – 

                                                  even the freezing rain silences – 

                                                           even the 30^th kilometer silences. 

Bears Not Allowed

Maybe the silences were the best bits.  We have seen a lot, learned a lot.  

But not so much about bears.

But we did it and now, if someone asks the question  how far is it to Dukla we know the answer;

Walking distance!

A Marker

PS.

The museum at the end was pretty disappointing – we, for some reason, expected more. Sure we climbed on a few tanks, saw an airplane and some artillery positions. But it wasn’t worth the trip.

PPS

The Last One

THE END

History

Polish

PPPS

Honest
(Well. Until next year)

	Day 36	Cumulative
Distance Walked	29km	820km
Meters Climbed	714m	31,073m
Walking Time	7:40	273:28
General Comment Poland! None of us looked into Poland – all that way and we forgot to look. We have climbed 31km – a family achievement bigger than any mountain (literally)

Slovakia - Day 35: Andrejova to Svidnik

A Pretty Sign

Andrejova was closed again when we went back. Another village with nothing but people and churches – no shopping malls, no nightclubs, no nothing: a nice place to live. We had said goodbye to Bardejov sadly. Quite how such a pretty town has survived despite everything is amazing. There is at least one god.

The day was boring. Can’t think of anything outstanding about it. Two forested hills separated by a nondescript valley. Not unpleasant but, nothing outstanding. I guess we were just eager to finish. There was a tower, which due to a healthy fear of heights I looked at from below and waved to the others. Eventually, they said that the view wasn’t worth the effort. But lied like, like … liars while they were up there.

Not so tough

Luckily, everyone has forgotten how to spell diaroraya.  No embarrassing squatting ‘looking for mushrooms’ in the woods today.

The highlight of the day was the shop in Kurimka.

Another One

The E8

That’s how non-descript the day was. Sorry Kurimka. But there was a shop and a pub, and a nice looking wooden church at the far end of the village. Too far for us to go and investigate – anyway it looked new. It gets no mention in Wikipedia so I guess it didn’t really exist – just a Fatty Morgana. The locals were nice though. We asked some kids playing hide and seek for some water. Sort of ruined the little girls hiding place - sorry. We have never been served with water so thoroughly – it took time to fill the bottle and all four children helped, speeding things up immeasurably. But it was cold and tasted wonderful. Thanks guys.

I had built Svidnik up to be a place slightly worse than hell. But I was made to eat my words. It was an ordinary little town. It was clean and green. The hotel, still in the 1960’s, was perfect for us.  The Prime Minister was in Svidnik too – but we didn’t bump into each other. Surprising really, a small town and only one hotel to stay... In fact it was so nice that we stayed two nights.

Probably Worth the Effort

The Last Day would be a ‘lite’ day.

The Last Day…..

	Day 35	Cumulative
Distance Walked	26km	791km
Meters Climbed	1,042m	30,359m
Walking Time	9:07	265:48
General Comment Mr. Fico was there too. But we missed each other. I hereby apologise to Svidnik. Clearly a case of mistaken identity. We have climbed over 30km – Usain Bolt would have run it in 48 minutes and 30 seconds?

Slovakia - Day 34: Bardejov to Andrejova

The Spa

Today we walked for 25k but finished only 10k from where we started. 

Someone thought that the famous (we had never heard of it) Magura hill was worthy of a climb. We, if anyone wants to know, disagree. However, we did get to see Bardejovske Kupele, which is very picture-sque.

Yesterday
	“We had a feast from a festival food stall – meat, meat and more meat it was delicious. A good idea”

Well, it turns out it wasn’t. 

The Castle

Two of us, who shall, of course remain nameless, learned that there are, in fact, two ways to spell diarrhea / diarrhoea. While bears do it in the forest – it’s not an ideal place to get the runs.  The first victim was discovered, in action so to speak, by a couple of Belgian walkers, who were polite enough not to mention it when we met them properly over lunch. But they didn’t want to share our food. Thinking about it now, I can’t blame them.

The second victim succumbed after lunch. As the same Belgian couple caught us again after taking a wrong turn. We met them once more, I am not sure what they thought but you could see them counting and breathing a sigh of relief.

More Castle

Food

Needless to say, in the spirit of camaraderie the two stronger stomached members of our party laughed and laughed and laughed. And compassionately handed more toilet paper to the victims: at the end of very long sticks.

I suppose it says something about us that both diarrhea and diarrhoea were the highlights of the day (at least for two of the party).

Zborov Castle. It is being restored, was being restored as we wandered around.  We apparently had several near death experiences. We almost died - repeatedly. We were warned, a few times, under different walls, by a friendly castle tour guide not to stand under the ‘Unstabilised Walls’.  But, in our defense, they all looked the same to us.

Bardejov

Our friend picked us up in Andrejova and taxied us back to Bardejov. We love him truly.

Bardejov, without the people is stunningly beautiful.

If you haven’t been.

Be.

	Day 34	Cumulative
Distance Walked	24km	765km
Meters Climbed	1,037m	29,317m
Walking Time	8:02	256:41
General Comment Presov - Wow. A spelling lesson was had. We have climbed the Eiffel Tower (320m) 91 times.

Slovakia - Day 33: Cergov - Bardejov

Part of a View. The High Tatras

My god – a view.  

Almost missed it as we walked through the forest. But luckily spotted, eagle-eyed and if I have to admit it weak-bladdered. But what a view. Forest of course, plains beyond, but then the High Tatras in the distance to the right, the Low Tatras in the distance to the left and a probably hypothetical view of Kralova Hola left of left.  It seems Slovakia is round.

A nice surprise to brighten up our morning. And it got ‘continued’, not better, that view is hard to beat, but continued none the less. We found a collection of towers in the forest, with a round thing with sacrificial alters arranged in an open circle. With the gap in the wall facing where, we supposed, the sun that rises every June 21 comes up.  It might have been a place for a picnic – but that sounds too obvious.

We talk a lot

We, with scant regard for our safety, explored the Newer, Higher, Better  tower. Up the steep stairs, with the ridiculously placed hand rails, to The Platform of the Thrones. In religious reverence, two armchairs had been carefully placed in front of the best view. Flags, that adorned the tower, flapping majestically on either side (all very Games of Thrones, again). We, with great respect sat ... carefully, on the chairs.

Some Steps

Only to discover that the guard rail was so carefully placed that it blocked any view no matter how tall or short the sitter.  A slight oversight, in an otherwise perfect, picture book tower. We looked for Rapunzel but didn’t spot her. Judging by the number of cyclists that arrived we figure it was some form of religious thing for mountain-bikers.

A Wooden Church

Then, then to make it even better when we got out of the forest we stumbled into Hervatov. I said our planning lacked.
Hervatov may not mean anything to you – but Hervatov is home to ‘The Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Built around 1500, it is the only, and therefore the oldest (Wikipedia’s words not mine), wooden Roman Catholic Church in gothic style in Slovakia’. I had heard of the wooded churches – but they are really made just of wood. The decorative paintings weren’t original of course. Typical of Slovakia. They were redone in 1665, ridiculous, and are just painted on the wooden walls. Amazing. We are cultural desserts* no more.

A Wooden Church Steeple

Then. Then. Then we walk into Bardejov (after getting a little lost on the way down -  town council please take note) to catch the end of the four day festival. And to meet our friends (from Martin) who happened to be in the area. The town is beautiful. But was too full to experience properly. But we are staying a couple of days, so it and we could wait.

That night we had a feast from a festival food stall – meat, meat and more meat. It was delicious. A good idea.

* - I know.

The New Artwork

The Open Road

	Day 33	Cumulative
Distance Walked	26km	741km
Meters Climbed	593m	28,280m
Walking Time	8:36	248:39
General Comment Bardejov - Wow Wow. Another 2m would have been nice. Well symmetric at least. I should have fiddled it.

Slovakia - Day 32: Velky Saris - Cergov

Bus back to Velky Saris and the brewery,

THEY, the family, they, thought it too early in the day to go looking for a brewery tour. So this time I saw the brewery from the path, through my tears. The words Piss Up In a Brewery ringing in my ears. I don’t actually even know if they do tours – but I can dream.

The lack of forest continued. I think they prefer the wilds of (the*) Ukraine. There were some beautiful meadows worthy of, but sadly lacking, alpine backdrops. We found a praying mantis, an invader so a pest, but a beautiful one. We eventually caught it and it obligingly posed for pictures. We don’t know which species it was – there are over 2,400 you know (Wikipedia).

No Paint

Paint

Once we got into the trees our red route was joined by a yellow route for a while. I guess paths get lonely too. So the trees were marked white: red: white: yellow: white. Or at least most of them. At some point they must have ran out of yellow paint so it was white: red: white:  Ž …

 – see photo, it will be better.

Ž is the for Žlty – Yellow ,for the wider audience.

 Ingenious.

To the Trees

We climbed through the forest towards Chata Cergov. Not really knowing what to expect, a full blown hotel type thing or a wooded hut, with a naked Dutchman. Our research tends to be lacking in detail. The cottage, when we got there was big and empty; we drank**, showered and ate. Then played pool, on the baldest pool table I have ever seen. It wasn’t exactly level either with ball all collecting, for protection, on one side of the table. But it was the same for everyone and we were all crap. But judging by the results of the game, I was, without any doubt - the crappest.

A Nice Meadow

* depending on your age.

**we have temporarily given up on mentioning the K drink. No sponsorship deal. Maybe we should drink Redbull.

 I feel the wings sprouting already.

An Unexpected View

	Day 32	Cumulative
Distance Walked	23km	715km
Meters Climbed	873m	27,687m
Walking Time	7:15	240:03
General Comment A quite unexpected view. Cottage closed for repairs. Luckily from tomorrow. We have climbed 0.5% of the distance Centre of the Earth (radius – 6,371km). The Earth is really really flat when you think of it this way.

Slovakia - Day 31: Kysak – Velky Saris

A Bridge

Breakfast and off. We had a date with a young brewery, Saris which only started brewing in May 1967 (Wikipedia).

Today was a village and road day. One could be forgiven for thinking that a sensible place to end the walk would be Kysak. The remainder of the walk seems like a bit of an add-on to get to Dukla. But the promise of Presov, Bardejov and Svidnik kept us going.

A River

In the immortal words of Magnus Magnusson, ‘I have started so I will finish’.

It almost seemed like Slovakia had ran out of forest. Hard to believe I know. We walked a long way on roads. We had taken trainers but as the holes in them expensively point out, they are not strong enough for rugged rocky terrain. But on roads they are nice.

The Path

We got to Maly Saris. There is a Little Saris (Maly Saris) and a Big Saris (Velky Saris) but no Mother Saris (Mama Saris) – maybe this explains the lack of bears. We had lunch in a bus stop. There was a poster advertising the “Kendicke Kapustove Slavnosti” – The Kendice Cabbage Celebration. A 2pm start the next day, a Miss Cabbage competition, a cabbage specialty tasting and a scheduled 4am finish. We thought about staying, we really did.

Safe

More road to Velky Saris, we looked in vain for some redeeming aspect of the day’s walk. We eventually found it in the conical stand alone hills that dot the area. Some geological experiment – cool – but that didn’t catch on. At first we saw two and wondered cheekily what they would be called. But then we saw more so left that train of thought in the gutter from whence it came.

A Tree 

Finally, we arrived in Velky Saris, but had to get the bus to Presov, so no brewery tour. NO BREWERY TOUR. Presov is pretty, in a quick stroll around town, a beer, eat and leave sort of way. A sort of place to do ‘En Passant’.

I saw the brewery through the bus window, through my tears.

The Countryside

	Day 31	Cumulative
Distance Walked	32km	692km
Meters Climbed	654m	26,814m
Walking Time	8:30	232:48
General Comment A brewery at the end of a long hot walk - heaven. We will miss the Cabbage Festival We have climbed a 6.5% of the way to the International Space Station (@413km altitude)