Pennine Way - Day 16: Bellingham to Byrness

Wolf

The world is emptier here. With nothing to speak of between Belingham and Byrness and nothing much to speak of in Byrness. 

However, we had the scent of victory in our noses. They were firmly pointed at North – to the borderlands. Only 3 days to go. Then we will have done it.

Walked the Pennine Way.

The moorland scenery was a wonderful mix of colours and grouse who were still getting ready for the party on the twelfth. The sun was shining, the clouds white and fluffy a wonderful English (still) morning (not in Scotland yet). There was nothing to see, nothing to distract you from the views. Other than our feet, rucksacks, ... but we didn’t care. We could do two more days. 

Changable

Today doesn’t count, does it?

We are already doing it.

Eventually the moorland turned into forest. More forest than the guide book mentioned. Or maybe the trees just grew up a bit. But the Way seemed to find the wettest bits around and join them together. 

Oh how we longed for the drought of Kinder Scout. 

The path was dotteded with stone markers “GH” which we took to mean Getting Humid-er, as the nice fluffy clouds of the morning had turned nasty. But, GH apparently stands for Gabriel Hall, the High Sheriff of Northumberland. Not so well known as his twin, the High Sheriff of Nottingham, now pronounced ‘Nottinjum’.

More of the 80%

The path was a muddy river with water on either side. We tried going round but it was a waste so through the middle and swim if you have too. Daughter was sent to the back given her affinity with deep water. Wet from below and wet from about. You have to love walking in England. At least my scaremongering was now a reality. I feel vindicated.

The wet path soon turned into a wet forest path – the unnatural and ugly Kielder forest. A man-made monstrosity of monoculturally introduced(?) trees. We love forests but not this one. But fortunately, the rain had stopped and logging made for a couple of views. 

A quick chat with a forester, he had seen no wolves or no little girls with red hoods, and we continued down to Byrness, which only exists thanks to the forest.  The forester was nice and helpful. Which was a surprise because we thought that they were all lumberjacks and didn’t care.

A flat bit

The village was devoid of life. Another old postbox, Georgian and a hunt for the old YHA.

The YHA was closed, of course. Closed permanently.

But, luckily someone bought it and now it offers accommodation, free boot, well free everything drying and wonderful three course meals. There is a deal, and it’s a good one. The end of the next day is at the top of a hill in the middle of nowhere. 

Not convenient for anyone. 

So this enterprising couple offer two night’s accommodation and a free taxi service from and to / or to and from, depending on your direction of walk, Windy Gyle – the nowhere hill. This makes the Pennine Way at this end doable. 

There are some alternatives but this old YHA is now often fully book: YHA what did you do?

We found it, we entered, were stripped of wet stuff, save our underwear and were led to our rooms. A warm dry heavens.

Bertha wasn’t being friendly.

Two more day's smiles

Bertha, the ex-hurricane was making conditions scary. A yellow warning had been issued and it wasn’t sure if the next day’s walk would be advisable. Forecasts of 80 – 120 km/h gusts and with nothing on the tops to protect you. America in line of sight sort of thing.

The weather forecast in the morning would decide.

The lost lady with the dog, from yesterday. The not lost Vanessa and Gretel had been following us. The old couple  has been Vanessa’s parents. Small world. They, Vanessa and Gretel caught us in Byrness.

Two more days.

5/8		Cumulative
Distance Walked	24km	366km
Start Point	Bellingham
End Point	Byrness
Via	Moors and Rain forest
General Comments The bogs had gone on holiday They had gone to the forest Why doesn’t water flow down hill

Our Other Walks

Walking Across Slovakia