Spain - Everyday: What we took

Packing

Due to popular request, well 1,  this is a list of what we took for a 7 week walk in real mountains (in Europe)

Individual

Rucksack (@ 65l)
3 season sleeping bag
2 water proof bags (one for clothes one for the sleeping bag)
2 1.5l water bottles (recycled mineral water bottles)
Toothbrush
Walking boots
Trainers
Swimming trunks
Micro towel
Water proof jacket
Water proof trousers
Gaiters
Inflatable sleeping mat

2/3 easy dry short sleeved T-shirts
1 easy dry long sleeved T-shirts
3 pairs of walking socks (4 if you have sweaty feet)
1 pair of sports socks
Underwear (minimum)
2 pairs of shorts
Gloves
Buff
Scarf
Baseball cap
Sunglasses
Light jumper

Head lamp
Phone

Shared

Maps
Compass
GPS
Guide book
Playing cards

Phone chargers
Spare batteries

Sun cream 50+
Tablets to personal requirements
Toothpaste
Soap

We had on average, with water and food, about 12kg each plus what we wore.

We could have carried less - but the saving in weight in no way makes up for the loss in quality of life.

Packed

Spain - Day 44: The Extra Day: Port de la Selva to Cap De Creuz

We have bowed to pressure.

          We admit it.

                    We have caved. 

                              We feel lousy.

But here we stand with one rucksack with food and water for a day. We, despite our better judgement are off to Cap de Creuz. It's early, to beat the heat. But its foggy, so why did we bother.

But here we go.

To everyone else's end

We have given the monastery of Sant Pere de Rhodes a miss. The 500m climb not appealing. Not at all. It looks ok in the book - but not good enough.

We have to walk along a peninsula to get to the sea (we've already been) but the sea at the end of the GR11. To get to THE end. We all knew that we would do it. I mean who wouldn't?

Back to the beach

A foggy morning at the beach

Now just that last little bit. The weather was damp. the sea not inviting and the views hidden.

Why are we doing this?

The view

An old church

The end old the peninsula is littered with buildings. Evidence of a long forgotten farming and life.

Behind the church was a watch tower. Watching for an invasion from someone or other. But now not needed.

We walked having fun. One pee stop we thought just one last sign for our friends so they don get lost.

It wasn't absolutely necessary - but the joke worth the effort. There was no shortage of stones. Lots of space.

Our last sign

Closer

The sun was coming out. Just as well we woke early.

Each part of the coast line ahead looked like it could be the end. But only wishful thinking.

The last up

But eventually, the lighthouse came into view in the distance.

Finally, the end. We walked quicker I feel. Only to be dropped to sea level almost and forced to climb back up. The route's last little challenge.

There were lots of people - we were over the moon - they didn't know or care!

But we weren't going to share anyway. This is a private accomplishment. To be celebrated by those who have with those who have.

It's a small club.

Not quite the end

The book says and I will quote

"... the terminus of the GR11 is marked by 

a rather insignificant cairn."

We were expecting a small  stone pile. Imagine our surprise when we rounded the lighthouse to see this,

Hundreds of 'rather insignificant' cairns.

And there were hundreds. We of course made our own. To mark the end, or almost the end, of our journey.

We walked Coast to Coast - 800 km or 850km depending on your book. But we walked every single bit of the way; 1,300,000 steps. 

And believe me that is a lot of steps. Boots - finished! 

A photo op in front of the light house

The Troopers

A selfie in front of the lighthouse. There were other people but this was a personal thing.

The last selfie

 Another end so another feet shot. Porn for walkers.

Almost the end. Really

 There was more however. We walked right to the end. to the very end. Where we found that

'rather insignificant cairn'

And a red dot in a white circle: The End

 Now for the group photo.

 THE END

But of course not really.

The next adventure awaits.

Luca, Alice, Nora, Ellie, Martin and me

We ALL did it.

Spain - 43: Espolla to Llanca

Out last day.

Today we will stand in the Mediterranean having walked from the Atlantic.

Morning sun

The boss

 We had been told that there were no more trees. That wasn't quite true but there were no big trees growing wild - no real shade. We walked between the vineyards and olive groves which filled the landscape.

Once off the roads everything seemed to have thorns. The paths were over grown - we got the impression that everyone else must have used the roads. This was just the day needed to get to the sea. there was really nothing to see, except the sea.

Some of the olive trees were old. Very old. Olive trees can live for thousands of years. The bigger ones could easily have been 'born' BC

An old olive tree

Dead

We got one more dead thing for our collection. But the sea was beckoning we were in 'Go Mode'.

We looked back to the highest point around and sighed. But we were almost there.

Coast to Coast along (not across) the Pyrenees.

43 Walking days

Looking back

We got to Llanca and got our feet wet.

Feet in the Mediterranean 

But Llanca didn't appeal. Alice and Luca, who were ahead of us, had looked at all of the campsites for miles around. They were saying Port de la Selva and the campsite that was furthest away was the best. Of course.

We have finished and have to walk some more???

We walked along the coast. Up and down from beach to beach. We visited several beaches before it dawned on us that we didn't have to walk now. We could swim and walk later.

So we swam

 Martin is happy

No days

But there is that nagging thought that there is a days walk to go. While Cap de Creuz isn't on our agenda lots of people have asked, repeatedly, how can you not finish?

Thank you Mr. Gruber. Thank you Alice and Luca. Thank you Rico. Thank you Junius.

Up to now we have said we will have finished when we got to the sea. But now. Here. Hmmmm.

We camped and ate, and drank, with Alice and Luca.

Homes sweet homes

We had finished - we were resting.

Resting

Honest.

Spain - Day 42: La Jonquera to Espolla

We left La Jonquera as quickly as possible.

Rocks and trees

And soon found ourselves in a rocky landscape, burned oak trees and scrub. There had been a big fire a few years earlier but everything seemed to be recovering nicely. The old, younger oak tree had been killed but trees of any size survived.

Rocks

No more forest

It was as usual up, and hot. We were very close. The mountains had gone and now the forests too. We were more careful after yesterday's unexpected trip to France.

There are three big differences between the GR11 (Spain) and GR10 (France). The GR10 allegedly has more ups and downs. It spends more time in forests. And, the killer, its usually wetter.

So our decision was easy. Plus none of us really speak any French.

To reinforce the differences the weather today put on a show. It was definitely  a tale of two weathers. Here in Spain it was sunny but what looked to be over the border in France.

A different story. A thick layer of clouds.

Seems we made the right choice.

Spain left : France right

Some of the rock formations gave food for thought. I think at some point that we area was a beach, that would explain a lot.

Little spires

The highlight of the day, if you can call it that are the remains of a plane which crashed years ago. It hit the side of the hill. No one survived.

But most of the plane is still there. For the world to see and reflect on flying home.

The plane

If we hadn't been looking we would never of seen it. It was close to the path but above and obscured by the trees. But we climbed up and viewed in silence. It was interesting - but people had died there.

An engine

The engines were buried. It must have hit really hard.

Before we left we built a stone arrow for our Italians friends behind us. We knew they would be interested but also knew that they would walk right past.

There are a couple of plaques. Luckily it was a cargo plane so not a plane load of people.

We continued down the dirt road. It was hot and dusty but we could see the sea. Not our first glimpse. That had been several days ago. We plotted out what we believed would be our course. With no references to the maps of course.

We walked - but it was easy. Now just down hill to the sea.

We came across a sign to a dolmen. We had ignored all such dolmen so far and to some extent regretted it. We may never be this way again (but we will).

This sign said 400m. It was off the track. The ladies couldn't be bothered in the heat. But Martin and I were keener. So we slipped off our packs and promised to be quick. We ran down as best we could. Looking at every stone to see if that was it.

In the end it was obvious.

A dolmen

And we have a suspicion: reconstructed. 

And empty - no body, no bones, no treasure.

The entrance

It had a doorway and a bit of a garden. But we suspect the later that might be a recent addition.

We raced back up to the ladies - he won. We dried out in the sun. We were soaked. But it was good to move without the packs.

When dry we resumed our quest. The path soon turned down hill and of course right past the bloody dolmen. So the ladies got to see it with the effort. We past more signs but you know what they say.

The spring and shade

We reached Els Villars. And as the book said it was empty. We sat by the spring and drank and drank. We had past possible camp sites - but it was a case of only if we have to. The book had said as much. Something about not setting standards too high.

We had earned a bed and a shower so we continued to Espolla and stayed in a castle.

Castle view

They said it was a castle but it wan't really. But it was old and comfortable with really, really, really nice people.

We washed and the owner, the king, took us to the local restaurant. We said we would find it. But he insisted that 'they are ok but can be a bit funny with strangers. Best I take you'. they were funny, but not unpleasant and the food was great.

Spain - Day 41: Camping de Macanet to La Jonquera

We woke in the peaceful beauty of the Spanish countryside. We could almost smell the sea. It was close. Two more days and then an additional day if we feel like it. But that would be an extra one. Not on our itinerary. Honest.

Forested hills - no more mountains

3 more days

We are close to the end. Martin is actually counting down. Every day a different picture. Fingers disappearing slowly, one by one. But the country that we are, still, walking through is beautiful. Martin's favourite. We have seen so many different types of countryside. Now its getting Mediterranean dry.

We walk into Macanet de Cabrenys, it's early. We look around and look for a shop to replenish our stocks for the day. Tonight we're in a big town so we only need to carry what we need to day. The supermarket is closed so we sit and wait. 

The owner sees us and waves us in. He's there so the shop is open, regardless of the time.

We eat breakfast outside in the car park and set off following the red and white marks. The path takes us through the outskirts of town, past homes and gardens. The gardens are full of produce. Green and verdant. Most we recognised but not all. If you know - let us know

What is this?

More cork oak

More and more cork oak. They are hard not to look at. Bare bottomed trees. We've decided the purple is the natural colour of the new bark. But we stand to be corrected.

We walk up - we expect a 400m climb so we are happy. The signs are there - red and white. So we are happy.

We walk up and up. And up. Eventually, Martin remarks that this is a long 400m. And when we all thought about it he was right. But we were following the marks. So we walked on. Eventually, we reached a spring, again expected and then we found the restaurant.

But not the one we were expecting. We, then and only then, checked the maps and GPS.

The red and white marks

We were in France, just, but in France. Not something we had expected.

We had been walking on the GR10, the French version of the GR11. The same concept, but mainly, but not only it seems, in France. Idiots. We are idiots.

Even worse, we have laughed with and at people who have done the same. But now its their turn. We ask for directions and are given detailed directions by a man who tries to speak Spanish but keeps dropping into Catalan. Even I can hear his efforts. But his directions were spot on.

Cork oak - forest

Where's the wine

 We finally came across a bit of cork, if you can call it that. It at least gave us a better understanding of what it was all about. It was a small bit, but we still didn't see how it would fit in a bottle.

We tramp our way back down and back to the track. Then just to add insult to injury it starts to rain. Luckily only for a couple of minutes. But punishment from above; for our laughing at others.

We get back to our route at La Vajol and carried on to La Jonquera.

It was dry and dusty - but we had expected more of this type of countryside so we have been lucky. It seems that we will only have a couple of days of it. And it's not actually that bad.

The motorway

The motorway on the edge of La Jonquera goes to France. Making La Jonquera an important border town. We should have known then.

We have slept in, walked though or over some of the most beautiful towns and villages in Spain.

But La Jonquera is awful - a terrible place - certainly not one we will go back to. We found a place to stay - but found Mr. Gruber walking around - too scared to go into one of these places. We didn't blame him. We had the benefit of numbers.

He joined us. And lived.

It probably isn't that bad - but then again...

Spain - Day 40: Bassegoda Park to Camping de Macanet

The book advertises steep wooded hills. But the route does its very best to avoid any un-necessary ups and downs so we can admire the hills but not actually climb them. We think it is pointless to climb a hill if there is no view from the top. Some of the walk is on roads but mainly it's forest walking.

Cork oaks are starting to appear. Cork grows on trees. Who would have known. 

Well, everyone it seems. But I had never actually seen a cork oak so I was happy. Simple things.

And happy again at every tree.

Looking happy

Every now and again we would need to consult the map. This usually mean Ellie telling us where we were and where we had to go. Then proving it on the map. She is the best among us. But no-one is infallible so there is always a discussion. But I always side with her. (I have learnt - she is usually right)

She is right the vast majority of the time. And even when wrong we would have all made the same choice so we bow to her abilities. Martin is improving but is not there yet.

I am blind so can't see the map. And Nora... enough said really.

Martin and a tree

Cork oaks are amazing. Did I mention the bark is the cork. Not the right shape but the geneticists are working on that.

They, the local cork farmers, let the tree grow and at a certain age they start to harvest the cork. They carefully strip the bark, in one piece if they can from the tree.

This would kill other trees but just makes the cork oak look trendy.

The bark grows back and in ten years is ready to harvest again.

These farmers have good jobs. Work hard for a bit then rest for 10 years.

The cork is the trees' (I have agonised over the placement of that apostrophe) protection from fire so is expendable from the trees' perspective.

We are not sure if the 'purple' colour is natural or is painted on after the harvest. But they all have it and are well painted. So we guess its the natural colour.

A stand of harvested trees with their arses hanging out is an odd sight. But these hills are full of them.

It seems they are protected too. And the rights to harvest jealously guarded. But it must be hard work.

We come across an abandoned church 'Esglesia de Sant Feliu'. The book says you can camp there and you could but its in the wrong place for us. So we take pictures and leave.

Standing tall

Tough trail

Church window

The church was locked but there were bits at the back that were to a greater or lesser extent was falling down. So a couple of pictures. Most of the churches we had come across had been open.

But thinking about it they were the more remote churches - with access being difficult. No civilised vandals.

It at times like this that we wish we had the ability (willingness) to carry a proper camera. And tripod. And set of lenses. And ...

But when we think a bit further the weight makes us know why we don't.

Some people do. But they are proper photographers (Luca)

Exploring

Hard life

We are still finding remnants of the defences that were constructed to protect Spain. These were maintained up to the 80s and were built, at least in part, after the finish of both the Spanish revolution and the Second World War.

They give us, well mainly Martin, especially if its a hole like this one, something to explore and give a glimpse into the past.



We finally reached the camp site. It was remote, at least from the direction we came. It was down a side road, off a minor road, in the middle of nowhere.

Basically, a perfect spot. It had a pool a bar and a restaurant. All of which we used to the fullest extent. We dined with Alice and Luca and eventually retired happily.

We are getting close to the end.

The trees are looking more Mediterranean.