We left La Jonquera as quickly as possible.
And soon found ourselves in a rocky landscape, burned oak trees and scrub. There had been a big fire a few years earlier but everything seemed to be recovering nicely. The old, younger oak tree had been killed but trees of any size survived.
It was as usual up, and hot. We were very close. The mountains had gone and now the forests too. We were more careful after yesterday's unexpected trip to France.
There are three big differences between the GR11 (Spain) and GR10 (France). The GR10 allegedly has more ups and downs. It spends more time in forests. And, the killer, its usually wetter.
So our decision was easy. Plus none of us really speak any French.
To reinforce the differences the weather today put on a show. It was definitely a tale of two weathers. Here in Spain it was sunny but what looked to be over the border in France.
A different story. A thick layer of clouds.
Seems we made the right choice.
Some of the rock formations gave food for thought. I think at some point that we area was a beach, that would explain a lot.
The highlight of the day, if you can call it that are the remains of a plane which crashed years ago. It hit the side of the hill. No one survived.
But most of the plane is still there. For the world to see and reflect on flying home.
If we hadn't been looking we would never of seen it. It was close to the path but above and obscured by the trees. But we climbed up and viewed in silence. It was interesting - but people had died there.
The engines were buried. It must have hit really hard.
Before we left we built a stone arrow for our Italians friends behind us. We knew they would be interested but also knew that they would walk right past.
There are a couple of plaques. Luckily it was a cargo plane so not a plane load of people.
We continued down the dirt road. It was hot and dusty but we could see the sea. Not our first glimpse. That had been several days ago. We plotted out what we believed would be our course. With no references to the maps of course.
We walked - but it was easy. Now just down hill to the sea.
We came across a sign to a dolmen. We had ignored all such dolmen so far and to some extent regretted it. We may never be this way again (but we will).
This sign said 400m. It was off the track. The ladies couldn't be bothered in the heat. But Martin and I were keener. So we slipped off our packs and promised to be quick. We ran down as best we could. Looking at every stone to see if that was it.
In the end it was obvious.
We reached Els Villars. And as the book said it was empty. We sat by the spring and drank and drank. We had past possible camp sites - but it was a case of only if we have to. The book had said as much. Something about not setting standards too high.
We had earned a bed and a shower so we continued to Espolla and stayed in a castle.
They said it was a castle but it wan't really. But it was old and comfortable with really, really, really nice people.
We washed and the owner, the king, took us to the local restaurant. We said we would find it. But he insisted that 'they are ok but can be a bit funny with strangers. Best I take you'. they were funny, but not unpleasant and the food was great.
 |
| Rocks and trees |
 |
| Rocks |
 |
| No more forest |
There are three big differences between the GR11 (Spain) and GR10 (France). The GR10 allegedly has more ups and downs. It spends more time in forests. And, the killer, its usually wetter.
So our decision was easy. Plus none of us really speak any French.
To reinforce the differences the weather today put on a show. It was definitely a tale of two weathers. Here in Spain it was sunny but what looked to be over the border in France.
A different story. A thick layer of clouds.
Seems we made the right choice.
 |
| Spain left : France right |
 |
| Little spires |
But most of the plane is still there. For the world to see and reflect on flying home.
 |
| The plane |
If we hadn't been looking we would never of seen it. It was close to the path but above and obscured by the trees. But we climbed up and viewed in silence. It was interesting - but people had died there.
 |
| An engine |
Before we left we built a stone arrow for our Italians friends behind us. We knew they would be interested but also knew that they would walk right past.
There are a couple of plaques. Luckily it was a cargo plane so not a plane load of people.
We continued down the dirt road. It was hot and dusty but we could see the sea. Not our first glimpse. That had been several days ago. We plotted out what we believed would be our course. With no references to the maps of course.
We walked - but it was easy. Now just down hill to the sea.
We came across a sign to a dolmen. We had ignored all such dolmen so far and to some extent regretted it. We may never be this way again (but we will).
This sign said 400m. It was off the track. The ladies couldn't be bothered in the heat. But Martin and I were keener. So we slipped off our packs and promised to be quick. We ran down as best we could. Looking at every stone to see if that was it.
In the end it was obvious.
 |
| A dolmen |
And we have a suspicion: reconstructed.
And empty - no body, no bones, no treasure.
 |
| The entrance |
It had a doorway and a bit of a garden. But we suspect the later that might be a recent addition.
We raced back up to the ladies - he won. We dried out in the sun. We were soaked. But it was good to move without the packs.
When dry we resumed our quest. The path soon turned down hill and of course right past the bloody dolmen. So the ladies got to see it with the effort. We past more signs but you know what they say.
 |
| The spring and shade |
We reached Els Villars. And as the book said it was empty. We sat by the spring and drank and drank. We had past possible camp sites - but it was a case of only if we have to. The book had said as much. Something about not setting standards too high.
We had earned a bed and a shower so we continued to Espolla and stayed in a castle.
 |
| Castle view |
We washed and the owner, the king, took us to the local restaurant. We said we would find it. But he insisted that 'they are ok but can be a bit funny with strangers. Best I take you'. they were funny, but not unpleasant and the food was great.
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