Spain - Day 12: Respomuso to Banos de Panticosa

Today is, let me quote the guide book,

"...The Cuello de Tabarrai is not only the highest col on the GR11, it is also the most demanding. This is nor a route for the inexperienced..."

We had the feeling that we were potentially inexperienced. But luckily it continues,

"...in poor weather or early in the season."

A view

The weather was good and there wasn't much snow left. We had been monitoring it on -line for weeks before we left home. It had improved but had not entirely disappeared. We hoped that we would survive. We went prepared, or trained, other than Ellie, for a big snow crossing.  No crampons. No ice-axes.

As we could see where we were going - we got lost. Or rather we explored the area around the bottom of the main climb more thoroughly than was absolutely necessary.

The road was upwards and it was cold - so we were sweating on the inside and freezing on the outside. A hard situation to dress for. A fashion dilemma. Lakes, rocks, snow and more rocks.

This is what we came for.

 We eventually found the main track and regained our pursuit of the col. Everyone we had met at the campsite, and left before, were ahead of us now. Not an issue. But testimony to the diligence of our exploration.

We soon got to the first snow we could actually touch. And walk on . And of course pose on.

Posing on the snow

Obligatory boot pic

The Col is really scary - the path almost vertical with wet muddy shale gunk under foot. With a slope below leading to the big rocks which fall to the bottom each year. If you fell you wouldn't stop. These are the last two photos before the other side. Concentrate and get over alive. Sod the photos.

Before it got vertical

The view down. Not as steep as it gets

The lake at the top

Over the top and a surprise Ibon. We were at 2,721m and it was cold. We put on our hats, scarves and gloves. Complained to the Spaniards around that we thought Spain was hot - derisive laughter was the result. We were in the mountains so it gets cold.

Over the top, alive and into the next valley.    

Cold

Note the gloves

Spain is cold

Once we got down a bit we warmed up. We were in Lake land (Tarn Land) (Ibon Land). The top of the world dotted with bit a left over glaciers. They were everywhere, the lakes not glaciers or tops of worlds

A lake in the distance

There were more lakes than we could count. There were more lakes than we could be bothered to look at.

There were more lakes than is absolutely necessary we feel.

Pretty though.

A lake close up - with islands

I lake with islands but not the one on the cover of the GR 11 book. But the lake pictured on the cover isn't even on the GR 11. 

But on a suggested detour.

Bastards.

Martin wants to see the cover lake.

The valley down had very very steep sides lots of bare rock and trees growing where they could. It was warm and today we had quite a bit of company. 

Looking down the valley

The valley

It was getting hotter and the stream was too much for some of us to take. So we had a stop where the braver among us went for a swim. I believe that the water was 'fresh' I think is the term. While they swam naked, us cowards took photos of this like the viewing bridge

The viewing bridge

The geology was spectacularly different to anything we had seen on the trip so far. Steep, bare and rocky with cascades just to break up the scenery and add a touch of reflective background noise.

Someone had given some thought to the valley design. Each one has been different.

We eventually got to Panticosa, a beautiful village build the the old Spanish aristocracy. Nestled in the valley now catering for the rich and famous but the mountain hostel still survives and that was our destination.

A drink - some food - a bed - and somewhere to hang our newly washed socks.

Watching the socks dry*

* After 12 days walking anything else can be exciting