Spain - Day 13: Panticosa to San Nicolas de Bujaruelo

View of yesterdays descent

The morning was as you can see beautiful. Our socks, surprisingly dry. Breakfast filling and we were all happy. But not for long. It is to be a day of two halves. The first half 900m of climbing in about 6km up. Which is about 15% - we will be nothing to sniff at when we get to the top. The second half down.

We had met two Spanish walkers the previous night and they were going the same way. But started later than us - they had the rhythm thing sussed. And the heat didn't bother then so much.

In and out of the sun

We started in the shade which was nice. But of course as the Earth spins the shadows move. However, we had made a good portion of the climb before our own personal sun rise.

People ask what we talk about when we walk. Let me tell you a secret - at 15% we don't talk about anything. Just switch to 'Go Mode' and go.

Don't think. 
Don't talk. 
Don't worry. 

Go Mode.

Mountaineers

Of course we stopped and panted and drank and took photos. Any excuse for a stop. Its amazing how many pee breaks you need going up.  But as they say (liars) the views make it all worth while. So we'd stop and look at the views. actually, they (whoever they are) are
right. It is worth it.

Mountains to be 'eered

Days like this make any effort worth it - it is perfect in every way. Blue skies, bare mountains, no wind, few people and of course up.

Our new Spanish friends were following. We could them below slowly catching us up. Then one stop they passed us. Only to be passed in turn on their next stop. During these passings a friendship was starting to develop. You have to be nice - you might need these people to rescue you one day. And it makes life more pleasant and doesn't cost a penny.

We got up above the lake and what a view. Words simply can't do it justice. It was so nice that when we stopped to eat we all sat facing the view and not each other, as is the norm.

Wow...

We even posed for pictures it was so nice. The promise of things to come. High mountain lakes - sunshine and swimming. This is how we convinced the un-keen to actually embark on this cross country journey. Empty promises.

Smiley Happy People

The down however was a bitch. A huge boulder field, with well... huge boulders in it. No nice path to follow - just be the best mountain goat that you can be and hope not to fall. Not a bit of mountain to be seen. Just boulders growing. Which, I guess, is why they call it a boulder field. Thinking about it. I

Is this where mountains grow?

Boulders

You have to be careful. The pack throws your balance out of normal and nothing is flat and everything is hard. An unlucky false move and you can do some series damage to your delicate skin, bones and teeth.

But after a while - Concentrated 'Go Mode' you make it. And can look back and give encouraging advice to people just starting the other way

Bottom of the mountain nursery

The mountains here are full of cows and consequently cow shit. But they can't help it. They can be dangerous, at least that's what the guide book says. But looking at this young beauty who wouldn't fall in love. Just look at those eyes, those cheek bones and the silky hair.

Beauty is a beast

You can be too thin...

Of course life isn't all roses up here. The mountains can be harsh and unforgiving. This skull added nicely to our collection of pictures of dead animals. 

We have red squirrels, moles, cows, horses, sheep, snakes, weasels and a few assorted insects. You have to have a hobby.

Some efforts have been made to make moving in the mountains possible. Some taking more effort than other. This little overhang must have taken ages.

Don't look up. Or down.

At the bottom another ancient, medieval, bridge. To be honest I am not sure what 'medieval' actually means in terms of dates. But I am happy to substitute the word 'old'. 

Old bridge

The campsite was just over the bridge. We put up the tents watched them blowing in the wind and quickly moved into the hostel

We can't say enough out how good these Refugio's have been. Food (lots of it), wine with the meal, the company of other like minded idiots. Perfect places to swap awful stories about what has happened and what is to come.

Every one walking in the other direction talks about Pineta - and we'd heard of that in Candanchu.

The whole walk is billed as around 850km with 45km of ascent and of course 45km of decent. That is an average of 1km up and down a day and about 19km walking with an 'average' gradient' of 10% either up or down.