Spain - Day 2: Bera to Middle of Nowhere (near Elizondo)

Rucksacks - Hurrah

In true German fashion, we got up late, went shopping, checked out and caught the 12:05 bus to Bera. After all we had a long walk to do and by now rucksacks to carry. So an early start was essential.

There was a plan however. Our first camp in the wilds of Spain. 

(Well the wildishes of Spain.)

Flora

But we regards to camping in the 'wild':

1. It's illegal  (really)

2. It was our first time (virgins)

3. We didn't know where (organised)

So the plan was to set off late and we'd get to 'some-undefined-where' around 8pm so we could camp discretely and hopefully not get arrested.

Our rucksacks were, much to our surprise, heavy. They were uncomfortable, again much to our surprise. And 'shockingly' we walked slowly.

We were walking in Spain so immediately we went to France - just a couple of steps over the border but still France. The border restaurant and expensive shop much lauded by the guidebook was not just closed. But looked to be closed down.

Note to selves: don't rely on the guidebook. This little note was chilling as we were about to walk another 830km over lots of mountains following this already dubious guidebook.

We hoped that the mountains were still open.

So no shop. No refreshments and no Fanta lemon (a delight which has not made it to Slovakia #Why).

The secret aim of the trip it to get rid of the belly

Off we went after having a cold lunch of delicious Spanish sausage and delightful Spanish bread. A bit of chocolate and by now warm water.

We are not carrying any cooking equipment - none - nothing.

The best lunch of the day.

We were closely watched by French tourists and dog walkers - like we were aliens. They seemed to want to know what we were doing but were afraid to ask.


Luckily as French is not one of the languages that we speak.

As responsible parents we didn't know where our children were going to sleep that night. They, the children, seemed unconcerned by this. Although it did slightly bother us. But if they could be brave, so could we.

A bunker: protection against the French or Germans 

We found the first of many bunker and other fortifications. Built to protect Spain against it's, many, enemies. They were serviced up until the late eighties. The military still ruled even then. 

The military were also in charge of the maps, until recently. The same maps that are, even now, described as potentially inaccurate in our guide book.  But as the book has so far not been a shining example of up-to-dated-ness we have hopes for the English double negative.

But slowly, actually quite quickly we had all had what can only be described as enough. Eventually, due to the heaviness of the rucksacks, our general out of 'shapeness' we decided to call it a day and started to look for some discrete (illegal) camping spot. Eventually, we spotted a likely spot. Top of a hill, so a view, next to the track so convenient.

But, I had obviously overdone the 'discrete' requirement, as the presence of a road on the other side of the valley worried the kids. A lot.

Spain

We dropped the rucksacks, decided to eat before setting up camp and sat down on the ground to eat. A delicious meal of succulent Spanish sausage and fantastic Spanish bread.

Our hopes about the discreteness of our spot were soon shattered as a German walker (Junius) who was just walking by, stopped to chat.

He too was doing the GR11 (a more organised version of our Coast to Coast) and was looking to camp. We said he was welcome to join us in our impromptu campsite - there was plenty space.

Home Sweet, Temporary, Illegal, Home

He put up his tent and later he joined us for the follow up to dinner and we had a good chat. 

Then a man and his dog passed us, a farmer in a jeep and two other walkers. So much for discrete.

"Are you sure this is right?"

Went to bed. 

Well went to our thin blow up carry mats and sleeping bags. 

Tired. 

Slightly nervous. 

Almost two days into the walk. Not bad after two days.